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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Solar vs. LED....
Your posts say to me, "get going with the solar!" A couple replacement bulbs in high-use lighting should solve that issue, but keeping batteries up during the heating season is gonna' take either solar or a genset...
FWIW: My two 75W Siemans panels have been going strong since '96---pretty much year-round....with a good controller, your batteries will last a whole lot longer, too....sure it's a big investment---but the option is anywhere from $1,000 to $2,000 for a genset---and fooling around with gas.
I'd definitely go solar and upgrade a few lamps w/LED replacement bulbs.
J
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nny12972
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09/08/11 05:20am |
Hybrid Travel Trailers
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RE: Trailer Cover Or Heavy Duty Tarp
Truth is, there isn't anything to rot under a tarp---at least nothing more than if ya' use a cover! AND, any cover that's spec'd. to "breathe" is gonna' breathe whatever free-air there is---dry air or moist air. And, cleaning the roof before you cover it is important whether you use a tarp or cover.
Both tarps and covers can be royal PITA to install---particularly if the wind is blowin'--- DUH !!!---do it when there's no wind!
Been using tarps here in N NY on my '83 PUP, '96 Layton TT, and the '04 TH I built---all three since they were new....painted aluminum, EPDM, and bare aluminum roofs---all three with factory exterior painted aluminum sides...absolutely no damage to date.
Truth is, the accesory "bumps" on the roof and the awning allow for plenty of air circulation....
Truth is, the critical factor in using a tarp is to keep it snugged down TIGHT to prevent flapping and rubbing on the painted sides---and keep any tarp grommets and/or bungy or tie-down hardware from ever touching the painted surfaces (I wrap my harfware with carpet foam & tape just to be sure).....and that can be accomplished quite easily----I use 1" X 10' galvanized electrical conduit (could use 2" X 4" too, but conduit is lighter and easier) under the frame---extending out 1' either side, and quality rubber bungies to attach the tarp to them.....the tarp and bungeies say a foot away from sides and that space allows for plenty of air circulation....
Forgot to mention, I also pick up a few large HD appliance (like from A/Cs or microwaves) cardboard boxes from a local store, invert them on the roof and run conduit or 2" X 4" between them to form a peak---then use the tarp.
Sure---you can screw up your RV if you let loose tarps blow and rub on the sides....do it right and that won't happen.
J
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nny12972
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09/05/11 07:59am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Magnetek Not Charging Battery
First, you can replace the whole piece of junk with a PD9245 for about $125. AND, the real advantage is if ya' get the Charge Wizard for it, the PD will treat your battery the way it should be treated.
Second, you're still gonna' have to reconnect the battery to the old 6245 to get 12V to your appliances---or rewire appliances w/fuses to the disconnected battery.
I'd be replacing the junk and getting it set up right.....depending on how much 12V you use, and how big a trickle charge you have, will determine whether it'll be enough.
J
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nny12972
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08/29/11 07:52pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Awning fabric is curling
There's nothing I've tried that helps! (Mine's 8, too) And A & E says it's a done deal....and Tuesday, my fabric gets replaced! I have a cover made up for the replacement that'll keep the sun off the roll both traveling and in storage.
Dealer says avoiding rolling up the pull stap inside the awning may be part of the cause, but age, sun, and wind-stretching is the primary cause.....
J
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nny12972
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08/21/11 07:05am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Fresh water stinks. Is this mold in the tank?
I'd take a sample to a local testing lab....they'll find out fast----it isn't expensive....I do it once a year with my rural well supply system....better to know and be safe, than sorry...
J
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nny12972
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08/17/11 05:22pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Enough steer axle weight?
Any idea how your present F & R ride heights compare to "as new?" Suppose your rear suspension components are shot? Throwing WD weight transfer & leverage at worn suspension parts can do what seem to be weird things...
J
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nny12972
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08/17/11 05:16pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Enough steer axle weight?
---Measure those finder wells and make it look like it's not hitched.This is bad advice. The OP told us he already has added 160# to the front axle and the rear has settled 1-3/4". He should NOT try to transfer more load off the rear axle to make the truck "look like it's not hitched".
The front axle should be returned to the unhitched load or slightly less.
This means the front end will be returned to the unhitched height or slightly above.
The rear axle should be carrying a load equal to about 75% of the trailer's tongue weight.
This means the rear end should be lower than the unhitched height.
It is not unusual to have 1-2" of rear end drop when the WD is properly adjusted.
Ron
Without getting into all my weights:
I agree with Ron....bareback, my HD/Z-71 F-axle is already carrying 1,020# more than the R-axle----and the rear end is clearly "up in the air," even with cap and 2 TH spares onboard (380#).
Hitched, I have 1 3/4" lower rear end & 1/4" lower front end, both TV and TH are running closer to "eyeball level," there's no appreciable change in steering/braking feel, and no rear (2WD) wheel spin in most on & off-road conditions----and it tows real nice.
J
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nny12972
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08/17/11 07:00am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 4x8 Harbor Freight trailer for golf cart
Having used one for a few years, I can say mine is right where it belongs....hauling trash and wood around at home. It's bargain-basement from A to Z.
J
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nny12972
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08/09/11 05:29am |
Towing
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RE: Flooring
Laminate isn't going to stiffen existing flooring....regardless of whether there's any kind of damage or deterioration.
Curious----have you determined exactly what you have for subfloor? Some are 1/2", 5/8"....most are interior grade ply/particle---on 24" centers----and that isn't exactly what I'd want, and I'm no heavy-weight.
I'd consider either cross-bracing getween OEM frame members, or possibly adding some PT to walkway areas from below...hard to if tanks are there or belly is insulated or sealed, for sure....but I'd look at that option.
J
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nny12972
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08/04/11 09:18am |
Hybrid Travel Trailers
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RE: WW sagging water tank straps
I'm using 2" X 4" alum angle under all of my tanks on 3 rigs....bolted through the frame......many, many 10's of thousands of miles and 7 to 25 years hauling them...no problems.
J
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nny12972
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08/03/11 10:40am |
Toy Haulers
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RE: Need better undercarriage clearence on small 14 ft KZ TT.
Fix sewer location?
J
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nny12972
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08/03/11 06:28am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: What kind of grease to use on hitch ball?
Been using Reese Hitch Ball Lube (lithium) for years.
J
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nny12972
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08/02/11 04:27pm |
Towing
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RE: travel in Canada
Forgot to mention----if you're a cell phone user.....check your plan for NA coverage----some of the Canadian companies are VERY expensive...and WILL NOT bill some US plans.....
Just like the Customs things going and coming---KNOW BEFORE YOU GO!
J
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nny12972
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08/01/11 03:56pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Restoring 1981 Coleman Colonial Pop up need parts
"ronco.com" has just about any size tank you could need....you'll need to measure closely the exact size of tank & fittings, and where your fittings are on your old one....and if they don't have it made up----they'll put them anywhere you want them----very reasonable and good people to deal with, if you choose to go that route.
J
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nny12972
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08/01/11 08:09am |
Folding Trailers
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RE: travel in Canada
Suggest keeping a close eye on tires and pressure...in many places throughout C & W Canada they use a very coarse stone product in all kinds of road surfaces----can chew up soft/old tires in a heartbeat.
But I'm pretty sure you'll love that part of the planet!
J
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nny12972
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08/01/11 08:02am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: aluminum cleaners?
I've used Meguiars alum. wheel cleaner/polish on wheels, diamond, and trim....works fine on all.
Didn't mean to kid ya'....some of the plastic looks awful good---but doesn't clean up very well after it ages.
J
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nny12972
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07/31/11 07:21pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: aluminum cleaners?
Sure it's not plastic?
J
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nny12972
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07/31/11 05:12pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Water Tank Deposits
If you have a SHURFLO pump, use their filter on the tank side--(uses quick-clamps)--before the pump....if you're lookin' for a house filter, put it anywhere you can fit it after the pump.
J
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nny12972
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07/31/11 05:06pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Water Tank Deposits
In addition to what "ford" said....you might want to pull the HW anode and let your FW flush it/drain it...the FW entry is low enough in the HW tank to clear most of any crud on the bottom.
J
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nny12972
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07/30/11 04:01pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Duo-therm A/C problem
Before you spend the bucks....
Can you pop the cover and move the cooling fan and compressor by hand? I see a lot of 'em arrive here that haven't been run all winter and it's nothing but corrosion/crud at bearing.shaft surfaces....it often just takes cranking things loose by hand to get 'em going again....running a TT A/C every month or so to keep things free saves a lot of headaches!
J
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nny12972
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07/30/11 09:31am |
Travel Trailers
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