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RE: Jim83Itasca
Jim was one of those people you never forget. If there weren't any RV's in Heaven before, I'll bet there is now. Thanks, Jim.
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high5
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11/09/11 08:13pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Looking for RV park in Texas
Looks like I've got a lot to pick from. Many thanks to everyone.
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high5
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10/15/11 07:20am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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Looking for RV park in Texas
Hello. Can anyone recommend a full service RV park in the Dallas to San Antonio corridor area? We might 'snowbird' there this year.
Thanks.
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high5
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10/14/11 09:40pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: 454 still getting hot now what?
High5
Dang good info your passing out here......
Your investigation into the "Stewart pumps" is superb and needed here, The thermostat comparison with the "Stage 1 through the Aluminum stages" is very important........
Jim
Hi, Jim. Just passing on some of what I've learned from you. ;)
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high5
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08/30/11 09:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 454 still getting hot now what?
the suggestion to eliminate the manifold bypass hose is interesting. What is the purpose of the bypass? How will that help?
If you're talking about the small hose at the top of the water pump, I personally wouldn't remove it. I haven't talked with a GM engineer but from what I've read, it keeps a small amount water moving continuously which helps the thermal distribution of the block and maintains water pump pressure. You might want to research that yourself before modifying the cooling system.
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high5
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08/30/11 09:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 454 still getting hot now what?
My MH is an '84 Coachman on the P30 chassis. It uses the "V" belts. I am having the radiator re cored now and would like to put the right water pump on while I have the radiator out.
Then it would be very easy to take pictures of the front of the engine for reference. I had 3 (or 4?) V-belts and one flat belt and the pictures helped in re-assembly. I used ziplock bags to keep track of the bolts and parts for each component. I also numbered each belt as they were removed. I had to repair a couple broken mounting flanges onsite and one of the belts was replaced with a slightly smaller one. I think when the flange broke, the previous owner didn't repair it and had to use a larger belt.
Don't forget to match the thermostat to the water pump flow rate.
I'm notorious for breaking bolts so I used a lot of heat in the dis-assembly. My induction heater was easy to use, is very safe, and worked great - but expensive. Check them out on Youtube. Maybe you could rent one. I also picked up a special socket set from Sears that grips those severely rusted bolts which worked great also. But if your '84 is extra clean you may not need any special tools - I did need them. :)
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high5
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08/30/11 11:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 454 still getting hot now what?
does anyone have the part number for the HD water pump for the 454 engines? I'm having similar over heating problems. Went to auto parts store this morning and they didn't have a clue.
I think the type of water pump depends on the belt systems used on the engine. Before I bought my water pump, I emailed a couple pictures to the vender to positively ID the part. Give Stewart Components a call (906) 789-2816, or http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Contact_Us.htm . They're located in Escanaba, MI. Take a real close look at your radiator before you start. If you go with the Stewart high flow pump, you might need a 12 point 3/8 socket to install the new bolts. It's an unusual size for a 12 pt and I didn't have one that small - but Advance Auto did. :)
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high5
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08/30/11 08:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 454 still getting hot now what?
Couple more questions.
Where should I tap the vacume gauge in? I think I have one around here.
Connect the gauge to the intake manifold, not the throttle body. You're looking for a port that has vacuum at idle and is located very near the intake manifold. I usually pull a hose and put my thumb over the end to 'feel' for strong vacuum. If the hose was connected to an 'accessory' system you can just leave the other end open. If it's an engine control circuit you will need to 'tee' it in to maintain normal idle speed.
This a good article about diagnosis with a vacuum gauge. It was written for passenger vehicle so some parameters will be different for our 454. For instance, it uses 3000 rpm for a few tests which is okay for engines that redline at 5-6k. I would use 1800-2000 for my MH.
http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html
I never leave home without one. :)
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high5
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08/29/11 08:34am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 454 still getting hot now what?
92 GBM 454
Factory radiator rebuilt/re-cored all new water pump belts hoses
Got it out on the freeway for the first time yesterday. 225deg and NO power will barely make it up a hill.warning alarm going off I just kept going At this point I have spent so much time and money I could really give a sh*t less if it burns completley up.
I recently replaced the same stuff on my 1990 GBM. The water pump for my MH was designed to turn in the opposite direction from passenger vehicle versions of the engine. It's possible you have the wrong pump. With normal warm coolant flow, the bottom radiator hose would be cooler than the top. If the pump is trying to reverse the flow then I would expect the bottom hose to be well above the thermostat control temperature. An IR temperature meter would be helpful. The short bypass hose at the top of the pump is important, so make sure it's there. You might also test for exhaust gases in the coolant which causes overheating.
The power issue is most likely retarded timing which also can cause overheating. I had a power problem and it turned out that the vacuum advance was hanging up. That caused intermittent starting and power problems. I had the distributor rebuilt and recurved.
One of my favorite tools is my vacuum gauge. Normal vacuum at idle will be in the range 17-22 inHg and steady. If you slowly increase the RPM's to approximately 1600 and the vacuum drops then the exhaust system flow is restricted (there is another test that's a little hard to explain here). A severe timing advance problem could cause some drop in vacuum also.
Hope this helps. I know how frustrating these problems can be.:(
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high5
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08/28/11 07:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 92 Pace Arrow by Fleetwood Fuel Pump
I have a fuel pump circuit diagram for my 1989. I can't post it here but if PM me your email address (or call) I'll send it to you.
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high5
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08/09/11 03:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 92 Pace Arrow by Fleetwood Fuel Pump
On my 1989 P30 the fuel pump relay will apply power for a few seconds as soon as the ignition switch is moved to run. This pre-charges the fuel system to allow starting. Once oil pressure is normal the pump is then turned on continuously by an oil pressure switch (usually located next to the oil pressure sensor for the dash gauge). This is all from memory but I think it's correct. You should be able to hear the pump come on for a few seconds when the ignition switch is moved to run without starting the engine. That usually takes two people - one to listen at tank and one to turn the ignition switch.
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high5
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08/08/11 09:11pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 89 SuperChief Radiator replacement tips
I also re-cored my 1989 P30 radiator last year. I removed it from the front but I had to split the radiator support frame because I could not lift it high enough to clear the bottom mounting bolts. Once the frame top was removed, I tilted the bottom forward and pulled the core up and out. To aid in installation, I slotted the bottom mounting holes to allow the frame to be re-installed fully assembled. I did all the work with the front wheels in place which slowed the process. It's not just clogging of the core that's a problem but the cooling fins separate and corrode also. Consider replacing the water pump and belts while they're accessible. It took considerable skills, tools, time, and patience to accomplish the task on my class A - Murphy's law was in effect. And whether you DIY or farm it out, like Brian said, it's probably best the investment you can make for your chassis.
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high5
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07/24/11 10:22am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: OIl Experts chime in
I have never seen any statistical data on engine failures using synthetic vs dino. It would be an interesting poll to find out which oil type was being used by those who have had catastrophic engine failure.
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high5
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07/20/11 03:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: OIl Experts chime in
Speaking of empirical evidence... Way back when Mobil 1 first came out, I was working with a Formula One GM racing team as a go-fer. I had the opportunity to observe the tear down of a 350 ci engine that was run the equivalence of 100,000 miles using one application of Mobile 1. The recommendation of the group was to not use the oil for the first 5,000 miles because the test engine never 'broke in'- the cylinder hone marks were still visible. (Most modern engine don't require break in.) I then personally tested both Mobil 1 and Amsoil and analysis showed they both performed extremely well. After analyzing Mobil 1 every 3,000 miles for 27,000 miles, it stayed well within the parameters that Caterpillar used for commercial vehicle servicing. So, rather than spend any more time or money, I decided to just change oil once a year. But there are other areas where synthetics shine and I think Brian benefited from that. For me, it's cheap insurance.
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high5
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07/20/11 07:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: A real long weekend and story.
Aren't vacations wonderful. So relaxing and rejuvenating - unless you own a P30. I'm just kidding. It's a good strong chassis but after 20 years of service things do break. And that reminds me, I need to change that oil sensor. :)
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high5
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06/03/11 09:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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