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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Dometic AC Mod 57915.341 Problem
The odds are the Compressor relay on the control board is stuck closed. It is extremely rare for a tstat to cause this type problem. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 06:31pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic trips GFCI.
"Here's probably what is happening to your reefer. The problem is that many of the heating elements are either exposed or are clad but with open ends. Moisture will impregnate the refractory insulation when the unit is off. When the unit is first powered up, there can be quite high leakage to ground. As the elements heat up, the moisture dries out and the leakage dissipates. Most of this equipment is designed to be hard-wired on a dedicated circuit where any leakage is normally conducted away by the hard-wired ground. The problem arises when such an appliance is corded and operated on a GFCI protected circuit. The initial leakage will trip the GFCI and never allow the unit to warm up enough to quit leaking. Once you switched to a non-GFCI, the moisture burnt off. You may not have a problem now requiring replacing the unit"
Total Nonsense. Yep, it is worth about 2 cents:S Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 10:47am |
Tech Issues
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RE: A/C freezing up
If you have wall tstat and ducted system, you cannot freeze up as long as the freeze sensor IS installed in the correct place. It is common for the OEM installers to forget about installing the Freeze Sensor on the evaporator coil. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 10:42am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ground Fault Keeps Tripping
Do you have a Norcold 1200 series refer? If so, one of the 2 heat elements is your problem. Replace BOTH. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 10:38am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dometic trips GFCI.
Refer receptacles are NOT required to be on a GFCI circuit. But, due to various wiring on RV's the OEM may use the GFCI feed.
IF the Refer trips a GFCI, then the 120 element is bad. Replace the 120 element. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 06:04am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Comfort Control Setting on Duo Therm a/c
yes, but WHY are you asking the question???? Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 06:00am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Where Do the Dead Norcold 1200 Refrigerators Go?
Please post how you bypassed the door heaters.
Thanks
Just tape off the door pins. Without those pins making contac, the door heater will not operate. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 05:56am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrigerator Help please
1. There is NO pilot light. That is the full burner light
2. IF it runs and stays lit on LP and after 24 hours the freezer is NOT at or below 25 degrees, then the cooling unit is bad. No reason to test anymore. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/20/12 12:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Can't pump fresh water tank dry - '02 Phaeton
1. ALL Tiffins have a Fresh tank Drain Valve.
2. Tiffins you never have to PUMP to empty the Fresh tank
3. Either someone removed the fresh tank drain valve or you have not found it OR the valve is clogged up with dirt.debris from underneath and when you open the valves you have found the clogs stops the drain. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/20/12 07:44am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fluid For Leveling Jacks
Dougrainer is correct for the most part. When I had a sticking HWH leveler, I raised it and wiped it down with Dexron ATF. Resolved the issue temporarily. Also, if I leave it down for the winter, I now spray a little ATF on it to cure the dry cylinder problem. I did have to take one leveler off, as it would not retract well for nothing, or at least without a shovel, and have HWH rework it. Now it works fine. ATF is not a solution but a good temp work around.
What I do not appreciate is the condescension in the reply.
You people NEVER get the point.
No one listens after such a statement, even though it is correct. Doug, mellow a bit.
"Dougrainer is correct for the most part"
OK what PART am I NOT correct on???? I am a Blunt person. I do NOT sugarcoat my repairs/responses with regard to "feelings". I don't believe in all this jazz that has happened over 40 years about "feelings". Some customers and obviously posters on these forums do NOT like factual/BLUNT information. TOO BAD. SOME people NEVER get the point. This type thread has been around for at least as long as I have been a member, yet everytime it is reposted, the same people have to argue their silly lube point. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 06:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HWH Leveling System Problem--Help
1. Excess slope means that 1 or more jacks have reached FULL extension and cannot extend any more to level the RV and that shuts the system down but NOT for retraction
2. IF you open all 4 manual solenoid valves and the jacks 1 or more do NOT retract, you have a Bad shuttle valve. To get the offending jacks to retract, put a catch pan under the pump assbly and barely crack open the HYDRAULIC lines to the 2 center manual solenoids. That will allow the fluid to seep out and allow the front jacks to retract. The 2 center solenoids operate the front jacks and the outer operate the rear jacks. Usually, once this pressure is released, the shuttle valve will then open up, but it IS defective and will stick again. It needs replaced. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 06:07pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fluid For Leveling Jacks
Interesting, we have HWH saying that the jacks can be wiped down with WD40 or AFT, lots of us doing just that because it makes it easier, and a lot of people having replaced old springs with new ones to get them to retract quicker and yet we are all wrong?
If we are traveling every day, then we don't have to wipe the jacks down, but when we are stationery for a few weeks, it does help. And before we replaced the springs we had one jack that we needed to use a board to get it up - - new springs, up right way.
So experience doesn't count for anything, just Doug's opinion?
Barb
Barb. It is NOT my opinion. It is fact and I have been working on and fixing HWH systems for over 27 years and I am HWH factory trained. I AM a Master Certified RV Technician and have been such since the program was first implemented. I have 33 years experiance as an RV tech. Springs (new style) will NOT fix a sticking jack problem IF when it sticks you cannot manually push the jack fully retracted with just your hand pressure. IF it retracts with hand pressure then the new style springs will fix THAT type retraction problem. I can GUARANTEE that if you bought a new motorhome and this type problem happened under warranty (it does), you would NOT just let the dealer/oem state to do the silly clean and lube. You would DEMAND that the PROBLEM be fixed. Would you not? Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 06:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Duo-therm issues
Simple. The phone type wire connection from the tstat to the FRONT AC has a corroded or BAD connection at the front AC. The display is controlled by the FRONT AC control board. You remove the top AC Cover AND the Evaporator housing and you look at the 2 phone type communication wire connections where the BLACK meets the gray at a splice junction. Remove them and you will probably see rust corrosion. Cut out the corroded modular plugs and install new ends and make sure the plastic splice box is not corroded inside also. IF the Wall tstat is mounted on an OUTSIDE sidewall, the corrosion may be at the plug to the tstat also, due to humidity inside the wall. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 11:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Heat Pump/AC electrical question
OK... Thanks Doug... that makes sense. What didn't make sense is that there was no problem at the other three houses in the same week with the same usage of heat pump and fridge - same basic temperatures outside. The only oddity was that this was the only time I used the AC (with zero problems) because my cousin has a very aggressive dog so I had to leave mine in the RV most of the day. So it appears that the HP does draw a couple more amps than the AC and was the issue.
Of course, the variable could be that the circuits at the houses with no problems with the HP could have been 20 amp... perhaps higher for use of power tools or something in their garage workshops.
Now I might even sort of know what I'm talking about or need next time I mooch off friends and relatives. :B It might make sense to switch the fridge off while I run the HP for that quickie cycle when I know that I am on a 15 amp plug. At one stop, my uncle has a 30 amp plug in his yard for visitors. Now if I could only get the rest of them trained to do the same.
Thanks everyone!!
YOU are forgetting something. That 120 outlet you were plugged into-- That is NOT the only plug on that household circuit. There could have been something else in the house ON that circuit that was ON at various times and that would ADD to the amp load on that circuit. The WEAKNESS (age) of the breaker could also be a factor. Maybe it was old or had already tripped a number of times in years past and it was now just a little weaker than those other houses you were at. Now to your last response. Just adding a 20 or 30 amp breaker to that type circuit is WRONG. The wiring and the existing receptacles are only rated at 15 amps MAX. Some do install larger breakers but the fact is those receptacles are only rated for 15 amps MAX. I hope your Uncle ran correct wire gauge for his 30 amp plug. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 09:35am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Location of converter on 96 Allegro
Locations on a Tiffin
1. BELOW the refer
2. In the passenger side outside storage mounted on a wall or subshelf in the 1st or 2nd compartment from the rear tires.
3. NO Tiffin uses a integrated breaker/converter panel system. They all seperate Converter assbly's unless they have an Inverter/Charger.
4. Not your older model but some now install in the first storage behind the RF tire. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 07:32am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Heat Pump/AC electrical question
The LOW Profile Penguin Dometic HP is as follows for COOL
AT 95 degrees ambient the compressor pulls 12.5 amps
AT 75 degrees Ambient the compressor pulls 10.5 amps
The fan on high pulls 3.5 amps, so at 75 degrees the AC was pulling 14 amps then 13 if on low fan speed. Your refer pulls about 2.5 amps
YOU are OVER the rating of the 15 amp plug by either 1.5 amps or .5 amps on low and THAT assumes no other pull amps from the Power converter which will be at least 1 amp
On HEAT for a HP that is a little more tricky. HP in HEAT mode will pull slightly more amperage even at 45 degrees, BUT the amp draws are the basic same------12.5 (no ambient variation when on HEAT mode for the compressor) plus the 3.0 and you are WAY over the 15 amp plug rating and then you add the refer and you are at-----18 amps. THAT was what the problem was/is. Your scenario is WHY I NEVER advise RV'ers to run the RV AC/HP when on a 15 amp circuit. The circuit is too SMALL AND the Plug in the garage or outside, that receptacle is ONLY rated at a MAX of 15 amps. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/18/12 08:10pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: ROOF A/C PROBLEM: A MYSTERY!
Never mind. I just looked on Ebay and they show a twelve button as a wire for wire swap out.
EBAY as a Technical source?????? FYI, it is NOT a wire for wire swap out. Yes, they BOTH use the 4 wire Phone type connector. The 5 button and 12 button systems have NO compatible parts. If you have 5 button you can ONLY use the 5 button wall ccc tstat. If you have a 12 button system, you can ONLY use the 12 button Tstat. The CONTROL boards for the 5 button and 12 button are NOT compatible and CANNOT be mixed. So, a 5 button will not work on a 12 button control system and a 12 button will NOT work on a 5 button control system. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/18/12 02:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Jacks
What you describe is the ELECTRIC motor for the pump failing. The reason for the failure, is the motor is mounted on top of the assbly and after a few years the water collects inside the motor casing. The GOOD news is, PG now supplies just the motor as a replacement part. Until about 2 years ago, you had to buy the complete pump assble for about $1200. You can also remove the motor and have a local Alternator/motor shop rebuild it. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/18/12 02:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Front AC unit kills generator when compressor kicks on
IF the breaker now trips and as Chris mentioned the shroud IS installed, your compressor is BAD. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/18/12 06:22am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Wrecked my 96 Dynasty, need advice!
NO Insurance company have adjusters that are knowledgeable or have ANY info on how to estimate or fix costs on Damage to an RV. There are NO BOOKS or ONLINE info to estimate parts and labor at all. They rely on RV collision shops to get that info and then approve the Estimate. ANY offer or estimate they may give you without a RV collision shop estimate will NOT be any way close to the real cost. So, you need to get your own Estimates from a RV collision repair facility before you accept any offer from the insurance company. Your RV is 16 years old and the parts will be extremely expensive if you can even get them from Monaco. We just ordered a bathroom window from Monaco for a customer's 2006 Cayman----- $1100, just for the window. Doug
Really NOT TRUE
Had a road alligator hit the front of my MH on a trip last year. I reported it to Progressive that day and within a few hours a adjuster called (on my cell). When I got back home a few weeks later a adjuster came out and did a surrey, took pictures and asked where I wanted it fixed. I new of so I chose a large MH dealer about 75 miles away. He then suggested that I call and make an appointment for the repair - I did later that day.
Less than a week later a check arrived (for $8000+) and a copy of the repair estimate. I took the MH and repair estimate to the dealer. During repair some hidden damage (to rear AC ducts) was found so another check for $2000+ arrived.
When the repairs/paint/etc was finished I picked up the MH and endorsed the checks over to the Dealer/repair shop. There was no question about the cost estimate and the total of the 2 checks was accepted without comment. The Bill was marked PAID IN FULL.
TR
That does NOT mean the adjuster did his job. FYI, we are at the point where we will NOT deal with Progressive on Insurance claims anymore as they do NOT have experianced adjusters for RV work and they LOW BALL every fair estimate we give them. They cause up to 2 months delay in getting the job done due to LOW BALL and having to approve every supplemental repair when their low ball does not include the items we listed. YOU are NOT an expert and the fact you got an Adjuster from Progressive that obviously did his TOTAL job is NOT a fair assessment of HOW RV insurance adjusters work. I have been doing this for 33 years and I know a LOT more about what I talk about than almost all people on these forums. The odds are the Progressive adjuster took his pics and notes to an RV or collision shop and had THEM estimate to costs and then he wrote the checks based on THAT, NOT his work. We get requests like that all the time. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/18/12 06:20am |
Class A Motorhomes
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