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RE: over heated & Broke down, Now in Prescott Az
Sorry for your troubles...and that I didn't see this earlier. I too would have recommended Northern Arizona Diesel in Flagstaff.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/20/12 10:43pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Solar Eclipse
I holed up at the Grand Canyon Caverns RV Park in expectation of a grand show...disappointed as my pinhole box never showed more then a quarter of moon shadow. Guess I was too far north. The maps they've been showing the last few days made me think it would be a 'Ring of Fire' but, no.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/20/12 10:18pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel Pusher Generator sound level
Mine is directly below the drivers seat. Only time I can here it on the road is when I'm parked at a light. When boondocking and parked, with the TV on, can barely hear it.
I have heard of some mufflers going bad, and mufflers not properly connected at the factory, so if yours is very noticeable, you might check that.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/20/12 03:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bone Head Move of the Day
For just a dime sized chip, I believe they make color repair kits for porcelain tiles. Epoxy based, mixed with a little porcelain I think.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/20/12 03:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Jacks
First off, I'd check the color of the fluid. Should be nice and red.
I'm heading down the road so hopefully someone else will chime in here shortly.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/18/12 11:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Jacks
Those pumps are pretty noisy to begin with. Is the noise new? Or different? How's the fluid level when retracted? What's the battery voltage reaching the pump?
The good news is that those pumps are also pretty tough.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/18/12 10:37am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Oil Cooler Leak...
Thanks for that link, MountainAir05, and I must have read 100 posts on the subject and come to find out, even with oil in the water, and no water in the oil, it doesn't have to be the oil cooler. So if I spent the $1700 plus for a replacement, that might not fix it.
Some have found changing the gasket for the oil cooler works, some the head gasket (mine is brand new), some the oil cooler, and some have found even doing those three things, there is still oil in the water. Even read a couple where they changed the oil cooler & HGs a couple times with no luck. One interesting theory seems to be that there can be cracks internally that open when the engine gets hot. But they're small and only allow the higher pressure oil to seep into the coolant and not the other way. Mine is just a sheen in the coolant at this point. Some find a quart or two in their rad overflow.
Now I'm sweating. This model engine also has the 'Killer Dowel Pin issue I've not been in a position to do anything about yet. So I have that to worry about too.
It seems this engine is a piece of junk with no long term reliability. Those people that said, "It's not even broke in yet", back when I only had 85,000 miles on it gave me a false sense of security. I should have done more research I suppose.
500,000 miles on a Cummins 5.9 before a major overhaul? Total Myth. IMO.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/14/12 03:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Oil Cooler Leak...
I had a valve break on my '93 Cummins 190HP a few weeks ago and as part of the repair, the tech discovered I had an oil sheen in the antifreeze. He told me that there is an 'Oil Cooler Leak'. My radiator is a rear mount. The part is $700, and the labor approximately 5 hours at the shop rate. He didn't think I needed to do the work immediately, but did recommend it sooner rather then later.
My question is, is it possible to just mount a properly sized external radiator to the outside of my radiator (there is plenty of room back there) and extend the oil cooler lines to the new rad?
Would this one work? Oil cooler.
At $300 plus shipping it's quite the savings compared to the shops $1175. Even if I had a shop install it.
Anything about the external cooler I should know for this engine?
Would I even need a fan?
Thanks!
Update:Just talked to the shop owner and he says that the oil cooler that's leaking is INSIDE the engine. So an external cooler can't be used...darnit.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/14/12 01:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1998 Bounder Basement Lighting
I forgot to mention that the new switch is a single pole/single throw switch. Could it be that the old switch is a double pole switch? How would I know?
You can tell if your old switch was multi-pole just by looking at it. If there are 4 contacts, it's a DPST. If there are 6 contacts, it's a DPDT. 2 contacts is a SPST. 3 contacts is a SPDT. Most switches in RVs these contacts are blades you connect your wiring to with push on connectors.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/11/12 02:14pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replacing Refrigerator Cooling Coils, who's done it?
Yeah, but those parts that are left are not likely to fail. You've already replaced the control card, everything else in there is kind of indestructible.
For less then 1/2 of a new unit, you'll have a working refer again. Especially if you tackle the job yourself.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/11/12 10:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Booth Dinette???
I think it's because the booth is designed to be converted to a bed, that makes the dinette uncomfortable to just sit at. For some. And with an average of only two people in an RV, they take up more room then necessary.
I know my next RV will probably not have the booth. I'm looking for the table and chairs.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/11/12 10:38am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replacing Refrigerator Cooling Coils, who's done it?
I helped a tech do the job once and decided then and there that it was best to let an experienced tech do it. It wasn't all that complicated, it was that there were so many steps. There was also some special goo involved that glued the new coils to the old insulation.
If you have a leak, the cooling unit is kaput. Signs are yellow powder on the coils, and/or an ammonia smell in or around the refer. But, I have seen a cooling unit fail without either of those signs.
Good luck. And it would be cool if you could post pictures of the job.
BTW, back when I had this done, in 2005, the coil assembly was $525. There are several places on the web that sell them.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/11/12 10:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: refrigerator problem
Sounds like they both need a good cleaning. Assuming you have plenty of propane. You could also have a leak in the system allowing air into the supply. But that generally causes a yellow flame.
Your refer or water heater manual will have a section on how to service the flame and give other clues to your symptoms.
How well are the stove's surface burners working?
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Jim@HiTek
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05/11/12 10:20am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1998 Bounder Basement Lighting
How many poles did the original switch have? How many does the replacement switch have? How many terminals?
A lighted switch has a dedicated pole for the light. One side is hot (12V). The center post is either missing or unused. The 3rd post goes to ground. When the switch is thrown, the movable contact shorts one side of the light to 12V.
If you have a meter, check for 12V right at the switch. Your old switch might have had an internal connection between two poles and your replacement switch might not. Cure would be to run a jumper from the 12V supply to the other pole.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/10/12 01:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Securing Genturi to side of coach - How did you do it?
Many use dual suction devices but I have read where the heavy duty types can leave marks. When I tried it with fairly cheap, handle operated suction clamps they would pop off after a couple hours of use. Annoying.
Hopefully, someone has a better idea.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/10/12 12:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Lazydays sales
Don't feel bad, we all have stories like yours.
You could just camp out in the service dept asking every 15 minutes when your RV will be done. You can also walk into the GMs office and demand your money back. You won't get it, but that might light a fire.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/09/12 10:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Bathroom odor
Strange. Do you have a pantry next to the BR? Has your vinegar spilled?
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Jim@HiTek
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05/09/12 02:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Best flat screen TV for motorhomes
LED. Recent models have a great picture and are very resistant to road bounce.
As far as brands go, many previously standard functions are now non-intuitive on name brands. Causing all sorts of frustration. One member of this forum installed a new Visio a few months ago and ended up removing it and returning it to the store after finding several illogical functions. And they aren't the only manufacturer doing things like that.
Best to actually check out the remote functions before purchase.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/09/12 01:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Help with a question about House batteries not charging
It can appear that the alternator isn't charging the house batteries...
I thought this was the case on my rig when I'd start the engine and watch the voltage across the house batteries. Didn't change. But then one day, I left my probes on longer and found that 2 minutes after starting the engine, a solenoid would close, and charge the house batteries from the alternator.
Since then, I've learned that the BCC (Battery Control Center) does the job of checking the chassis battery voltage after starting...waits until it's charged, then closes a solenoid to charge the house batts.
The older and weaker the chassis battery is...the longer the delay will be.
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Jim@HiTek
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05/06/12 02:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: '94 Bounder with Parking Brake problem.
Thx, mobilefleet. Something to go on...
Any other suggestions?
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Jim@HiTek
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05/05/12 09:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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