| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Sleep number mattress issue(s)
Fire Up --
I didn't realize you had new parts coming from S/N. What are they sending you and what did you have to pay for them?
I know it will be very difficult to do but can you somehow describe how you fold a blanket into a mild pyramid to place under the center of the bladders? I can visulize doing it with 3 different blankets but all with one? Got to hand it to you for all your experimenting.
And I definitely know about higher altitude effects. Coming from about 1100 feet elevation in Oklahoma we've had potato chip sack actually pop open going over 11,000 ft Monarch Pass in Colorado. Scared the ____ out of us as the first thought was "Oh no, we didn't lower our air mattress enough at 4,500 ft in western Kansas". Had to eat lots of chips in the next few days as we already had one bag open we had been using.
Please keep up posted on your upcoming improvements on the bladders.
Wagonmaster2
Wagonmaster2,
Well Sir, again, some like them and some don't. I stated that I think the design has great potential because of the individuality it brings in sleep comfort for two different people, laying within a foot of each other. Just why you and I are experiencing this weird issue is, well, who knows. Anyway, below is the very crude, to say the least, picture of how I folded the blanket. First, you need a blanket or, bed spread or, anything that is not too big in length as it will bunch up at the foot or the head of the bead and you don't want that. Basically you and the DW lay the blanket out flat on a floor big enough to do so. Then you go to the center, DW on the opposite side, and grab a section about 8-10" away from the center and put you finger down there. Then, while holding that section down with your finger, move another 8 or so inches away from that one you just fingered and bring it over your finger.
You see how it's coming into form? Then you repeat it for the next fold. And finally, it tapers off to nothing as it moves towards the outside of the bladders. What you did was, fold up side down. When you're all done, it gets turned over so it's higher in the center 12" or so and then tapers to a less height and finally a single layer as it tapers away. Get the picture?
Now, You can use a blanket, large beach towel, older bed spread, multiple towels, anything that will build from the center and taper down to the outer edges. All you're trying to do is counter the effect of the "drift" of you two to the center of the bed. Now, like stated, if you've got a slight crown in the bed when all done, no biggie. It's kind of what you want.
Now, not many other folks here who've got the Sleep Number bed have to do this trickery to make a bed work but, they're not having the problems you and I are having and, we're not willing to toss an $800.00-$1300.00 bed out the window, just yet. Oh, by the way, when I placed the folded blanket on the bed platform, it didn't look high enough for me so, I folded a long beach towel, in thirds lengthwise, and added it to the top-center of the folded blanket. I thought it might be too much but, I could always remove it if needed.
When it was all said and done, the chambers were filled and the center section was in place and top foam egg crate was in place, I then put the top to the bed on and zipped it all together. I placed the bed spread on it and the pillows and it was done. I climbed on and took a test drive. There was no effect of drifting in any direction. The bed was acting in a perfect manner.
One of the issues with putting a standard mattress in it's place is, a standard mattress has a real hard time "bending" in the middle when the bed platform is raised for access to items stored underneath and, access to the top of the CAT engine. And, while it's not the end of the world, a standard mattress is considerably heavier than the S/N. So, would the gas struts hold up a standard mattress, don't know, don't have one.
As for what S/N is sending us, it's a pair of new air chambers that have a zipper for the center section and are supposed to zip together to eliminate the drift towards center. The assistant on the phone told me it was normally around $305.00 but, FOR ME (yeah sure) it was going to be $88.00 plus shipping. The total, $101.60 for the new set and, the good part, it has a 30 day trial period. So, if it's junk, we'll send it back for a refund. And then, either go back to the towel/blanket combo or, think of an alternate mattress or ???? We'll see when the time comes.
Scott
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/foldedblanket.png
|
FIRE UP
|
05/08/12 11:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Itasca Horizon bedroom Ceiling fan shot, need new one
Did you do a search for 12vdc ceiling fan?
Fan
gatorcq,
Well Sir, we've scowered the i-net, many RV supplies stores and, a few RV repair establishments. I was supprised by the fact that one of the RV repair/parts suppliers here in San Diego had never heard of a 12V Ceiling fan. I guess he does not work on many Itascas or Winnes because I think many, many of them have one.
Anyway, yes, you can buy them all day long on ebay but, most of those, if not all are higher priced than what I can find them for locally but, finding them locally IS the problem. The model/color I'm in search of "White w/Brushed nickel housing etc" is no longer produced by Lasalle Bristol which, is most likely the maker (or importer) of our original unit.
So, we'll see what comes up. I'm also into looking at trying to fit a brushless 12V DC motor to it. That will be a bit of a challange but, a possibility. We'll see.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/08/12 06:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
Itasca Horizon bedroom Ceiling fan shot, need new one
Well Folks,
After some searching around, I've found that just about all of ceiling fans installed in the Itascas and Winnes make noise. Some have tightened screws, reversed the operational direction, and other home remedies but, for the most part the noise either remains or comes back shortly.
Well, after returning from a short camping trip recently, ours was making more noise than normal. So, down it came and apart it went. All I could find for a possible problem was a very slight bit of noise in both bearings. Now, I can get the bearings for about $1.00-$3.00 each, depending on where I get them but, it's getting them off that's the problem. You need a micro gear puller to do the job which, I don't have. So, I made some feeble attempts at removing one of them and it didn't work. All I did was move the main shaft a tad in the wrong direction.
So, in the midst of trying things, attempting to remove bearings and some clumsiness in re-assembling the armature and brushes, I ended up breaking several of those tiny wires that are part of the windings that lead down to the commutator. Well folks, that's not a good thing, at all. These are little Taiwanese motors and there's no parts or replacement motors that I can find so far.
And, even finding a complete replacement fan is hard to do, since most of the RV parts supplies stores don't carry any. I even called a local RV repair place here in San Diego that's been there for years and he'd never seen a 12V Ceiling fan. Hmmmmmmmmmm
So, has anyone had to deal with a replacement fan like that and did you find some miracle set up that would take the place of the junk motor that came with the fan? I'd love to do a brush-less set up but, that would take some slight engineering.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/08/12 04:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Battery Replacement and Cables
... So, since my thoughts are if, they all last about the same, then why not go for price. Well, I went for the Costco ones. Others of course will differ and that's perfectly fine. I made my own cables too. I used 1GA wire and so far, all the demand we've placed on those (4) Costco 6V units, dry camping and all, have been taken care of. I'd do it again in a heart beat.
Scott
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/IMG_0269.jpg
Scott, although this is a minor improvement, ideal battery cabling attaches the main positive and main negative cables to different pairs of 6V batteries (or different 12V batteries if using 12Vs).
In other words right now the pair of batteries closest to the camera will charge and discharge slightly faster than the other pair. This is because the rear pair are charged through additional cabling while the front pair are charged/discharged directly.
To make it an ideal, equal charging/discharging system all you need to do is take the main positive cable and attach it to the other end of the positive coupling cable (the cable on the left side). Basically just move the main positive cable to the positive terminal of the left side battery farther from the camera. Alternatively you could move the negative cable to the other end of the negative coupling cable (right side cable). You only want to move one of them.
With this setup both the front pair and rear pair of batteries both charge and discharge through exactly the same length and size of battery cables so they get the same loads.
Hopefully that wasn't too confusing....
Steve S,
I want to thank you Sir for taking the time to explain your analysis of my battery situation. When this was done, it started life as (3) 12V Interstate SRM 29 batteries. (2) of the one year old set, went bad after only 11 months and very little use. So, I dove into setting up the six volt units you see. I went on line and checked out a few wiring styles and, while there are, like you stated, some subtle differences, I picked this one because, it will and has worked and, two, the main cables you see, were not changed and could fit in the arrangment you see.
The two main cables you see with yellow bands on them, they go directly to the inverter. There are two other main cables that come off the rear set (of posts) that go to the 12V distribution center. All those main cables are of 2/0 GA and the new ones I made are of 1GA. We've been dry camping a few times since this system was set up and so far, it's flawless.
I'm certainly not countering your advice here, far from it. I agree that there's most likely an "ultimate" way of wiring. Based on the cable lengths, how they act when the tray is extended and retracted for battery maintenance is also a consideration. There is a serious amount of battery cables, both house and chassis right behind both sets of batteries/and or trays. It looks like an L.A. freeway system behind there.
I will take a look at your suggestion and my routing of the cables to see if there would be any issues should I elect to change them to your plan. Thanks again.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/08/12 10:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Sleep number mattress issue(s)
Something is different with your bed if both sides inflate at one time. Ours has a single remote that has a left and right button to select which half gets inflated or deflated.
We've never had the roll to the middle problem and I weigh about 100 pounds more than my wife. When it is time to replace our regular mattress in the house it will be a Select Comfort.
\
Doug,
I must have mislead you somewhere along the line here. I didn't say they inflate at the same time. We have two remotes and, two air chambers and they inflate separately. One has absolutely no effect on the other one. And, both seem to hold air for a continued time frame. We do have to deflate or inflate due to the given altitude we're in at the time of sleeping.
We try and remember to deflate them prior to driving into higher elevations. We've forgotten a few times and wow, it's amazing how plump they get. They look like a potato chip bag that was bought in San Diego and not touched 'till we hit Ouray CO.
Anyway, the bed has no malfunctions other than the strange occurrence of causing us to both "drift" to the center. It's not overly exaggerated but, the effect is there. So, I'm working on it and, at the minute, my "MacGyver" attempt of folding a blanket in a pyramid shape is providing the corrected effect. We'll see if the new air chambers that S/N is sending us will do what I've done.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/08/12 09:22am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Sleep number mattress issue(s)
Fire Up--
We have a 2004 Meridian 36' with a Sleep Number mattress and have had the exact same problems you described ever since it was new. I finally called Sleep Number thinking since it wasn't all that old that they would have an easy fix for the customer cost free.
Well they did. For $18 they'd send me a new center piece that they described as an upside down "T". Or for $89 they'd send me two new air bladders that's suppose to fix the problem. One poster stated to save your money as neither one worked for them.
I do feel like it must be something wrong with the way the bladders are designed. Sort of like when you sit down on the side of an inflated tire tube, you sink on the side you sit on and all the air is pushed to the other side. I know these bladders are supposed to have chambers in them but they are still all connected since one air supply inflates them all at the same time.
Fire Up, I'm considering trying the same thing you have suggested with the extra foam under the center of the mattress between the two bladders. Keep us posted on how yours works out if you do it.
I was considering a Sleep Number for the stick house to replace our aged Simmons mattress but not sure I want to spend $2,000-$2,500 for something like this.
Wagonmaster2
Wagonmaster2,
Well Sir, this is like many subject on the ole' RV.net, some like'm and some don't. As stated above, we're going to try and make it work as, I think it's got good potential. Just exactly why this phenomenon is happening, is way beyond me. I've tried many alterations of the two air chambers and the same result always happens.
So, I'm experimenting on my own as of now, 'till the new parts from S/N get here. What I've done is, fold a blanket in such a manor that it's triple thickness, about 12" wide then, it's double thickness for about 10" on each side of the center folds and finally, it's single thickness for the last about, 4-5".
Again, it's like a very shallow angle pyramid. The bed, even when fully made, has a slight crown in it now. But, upon laying on it, it's perfectly flat in all directions. Absolutely no "tilting" at all. Talk about simple and cheap remedy. But, we'll see how well it lasts on our next camping trip unless, the new parts come in sooner.
Heck, for that matter, we can go camping along side our house, where the M/H is stored. Yahoo, camping at home! I'll give a full report as soon as we test our simple solution.
sowego,
Well Sir, knowing what we know now, I'd surely not spend the coinage for one. They are pretty high priced for so many non-believers out here in the RV world. Yes, there are many that are happy but, in reading many posts/answers on this thread and others about the S/N bed, it sure looks to me as more are unhappy than happy. I'm only speculating here.
A newcomer to the S/N system would have to judge on their own without outside influence as to whether it works for them or not.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/07/12 10:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Electrial gurus, need help with door awning, please.
dougrainer,
I'm sorry for not replying to your answer to my issues on the door awning. I've been out of town for a while camping and getting away from working on this rig to using it. Man, was it nice. Anyway, it is possible you're correct on this. ANYTIME I use outside power, i.e. an large 12V Battery sitting right beside me when doing the tests, that awning will extend and retract, in and out, as many times as I want it to, full extend and arms in the "Locked open" position, each and every time. It, the motor. does not care, it just opens and closes that awning without any issues at all.
But, when using normal operating system, it will, after about 5-6 full cycles of all the way out(almost) and all the way back in, just slow down rapidly and quit. Hmmmmmm
So, for now, it's status quo. I'll keep plugging away on it.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/07/12 01:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: '94 Bounder with Parking Brake problem.
Jim,
I'd sure like to be able to assist you on this one as I've got lots of experience with the infamous "ZF" parking brake on the Gas Bounders but, yours, not a clue. Sorry.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/06/12 10:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: TPO roofs inthe hot sun???
superglue,
Bullhead City huh? That's some serious heat. We've been there a few times for river running and yep, you can fry eggs on just about any surface during your summer. Anyway, rubber roofs are actually fairly durable. I'm not a fan of them but, that means nothing. On our '99 Bounder, it was left uncovered here in Ramona CA for 7 years and, while they are fairly durable, it took it's toll on it.
As for lasting 20 years, yes the mfgs claim they will but, I've yet to see some that are in really great shape that have been left out in the sun for that amount of time. Ours eventually almost turned completely black, due to the fact that the White portion simply weathered off over 10 years in the sun. We ended up doing a complete re-coat of it with the Dicor product sold at C/W.
WE used the primer/sealer and followed the instructions explicitly. But, anyway, if you have any opportunity to cover that beast, do so. Drive under is the best but, not always affordable and or available so, at least try and cover it with one of those throw on covers. The Sun kills all.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/06/12 09:57pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Help with a question about House batteries not charging
It can appear that the alternator isn't charging the house batteries...
I thought this was the case on my rig when I'd start the engine and watch the voltage across the house batteries. Didn't change. But then one day, I left my probes on longer and found that 2 minutes after starting the engine, a solenoid would close, and charge the house batteries from the alternator.
Since then, I've learned that the BCC (Battery Control Center) does the job of checking the chassis battery voltage after starting...waits until it's charged, then closes a solenoid to charge the house batts.
The older and weaker the chassis battery is...the longer the delay will be.
Jim,
You're pretty close to right on partner. In the Fleetwood units, namely Bounder, there IS a Battery Control Center. And there's lots in that box. One of the many things in that box is a printed circuit board with a ton of functions. The one important component on that box is called a "Bi-directional, time delay relay". It's all explained here:
Battery Control Center
To me, this is facinating stuff. Most don't care how it works, just that it DOES work. Now, not all coaches have one of these but, some will have a variation of it. Diesel rigs will have something different than gas units and Fleetwood will have something different than Winnebagos etc. But, to all, if you get a chance, check this site out, it's old but I think much of the technology is still used today.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/06/12 09:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Battery Replacement and Cables
I thought the coach/chassis batteries are 6v not 12v.
Brett the ones you have selected are 12v correct ?
Jack
Jack,
You originally stated "Coach" batteries. Well, some interpret that as Chassis batteries and some, house batteries. It's terminology thing. No biggie. If, in fact you want to replace the "House" batteries, you've got lots of choices out there. I've had Trojans, Interstates and Costco 6V units in the past. To me, they've all lasted about the same.
So, since my thoughts are if, they all last about the same, then why not go for price. Well, I went for the Costco ones. Others of course will differ and that's perfectly fine. I made my own cables too. I used 1GA wire and so far, all the demand we've placed on those (4) Costco 6V units, dry camping and all, have been taken care of. I'd do it again in a heart beat.
Scott
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/IMG_0269.jpg
|
FIRE UP
|
05/06/12 09:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Sleep number mattress issue(s)
Gents,
Thanks for taking the time to read this and comment. We went out and "flipped" the two chambers and, zero effect difference. So, I flipped them back to normal and we then proceeded to do an experiment. We folded a blanket in such a manor that it was thicker in the middle and tapered out towards the edges. It was way too long for tucking into the ends of the beds but, we tried it anyway. Yep, it worked.
This is a physics and geometry issue. And, I barely know how to spell those much less work with them. But, by creating a so called "High spot" in the center and tapering towards each side of the bed, it basically counter acted the inward roll effect that the two air chambers were creating. We placed the air chambers on top of that folded blanket and haphazardly placed all the rest of the 4" foam around the edges and climbed on the bed and set both sides to 50.
I had no effect of rolling towards the center at all. And, none trying to roll me to the outsides of the bed either. She said she had a tad bit of attempt to roll to the outside so, I let her side down to 45. It basically stopped that feeling.
So, at this time, a very crude attempt at reversing the issues at hand and, a somewhat positive answer. So, now to create a more permanent remedy. I'm thinking instead of the plywood roof theory, I'll head on down to the local foam and industrial material supply house and get a 1" x 12" x 80" section of foam for the center, and two 1/2" x 4" x 80" for the section 1/2 way from the 1" section and the outboard sides of the air chambers.
In the mean time, I will take one of your suggestions and call Select Comfort and see what they have to say. Thanks again for your help here.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/06/12 06:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
Sleep number mattress issue(s)
Ladies and Gents,
I've done some searches and found a few threads on people selecting different mattress's but, not too much on our issues. We have an '04 Itasca Horizon D/P and it came with a Sleep number set of mattress's. that is, a "set" because there's two chambers for the single bed. A "his" and "hers". Well, ever since we've tried sleeping on it, for just about a year now, on various trips, we can't seem to get something right.
It seems that no matter what the settings are, mine on higher, hers lower, hers higher, mine lower, both equal-high or low, etc. etc. etc. we both seem to "lean" towards the middle of the bed. I've pulled that bed apart twice now and find no odd issues with any particular section. As those that know, there's an outer 4" thick perimeter wall of foam, then the two air chambers, and finally three "Sawtooth" sections of foam, in between the two air chambers. Is that the same way all or yours are laid out? By the way, there's a layer of sawtooth foam, about an inch thick, that covers only the air chambers, not the perimeter 4" walls.
Now, in all honesty, the sawtooth pieces of foam that are in the center(between the two air chambers) are a tad lower than the two air chambers. But, in all reality, it's the air chambers that are the issues. When I lay on my side, and adjust it to say, 50, and the pump stops, I still feel I've got a slight tilt towards the center of the bed.
Now, during any movement in bed during the night, I'll eventually end up crowding her out. And, her side does the same thing. So, we, during the night or even right after we hit the sack, are already bouncing off each other because this bed seems to make us do that.
I've checked the platform under the bed and it's around 3/4" thick and seems it's not "swaying" in the center at all. I was thinking that if the plywood base had a sway in it, then it would be accentuated in the two mattress chambers above but, that does not seem to be the case here.
We just got back from a 3 day trip to our local desert and nothing has changed. Well, upon return, we started messing around with that set of mattress's. I moved hers to my side and mine to hers. Then, climbed on and filled to 50, SAME THING! Hmmmmmmmmmm
I'm actually thinking of building a 1/4" ply wood gable system (it would sort look like a very shallow roof pitch with a peak) under the two chambers. I'd only raise the center section about 3/4" total. I can't for the life of me figure out why this supposed "expensive" and well thought of bed is doing this.
We've never had any issues like this before in any of our other coaches and they had cheap-o rv mattress's in them from the git-go. We've also never had an issue like this in our home mattress's either. I'm stumped on this one, anyone had any issues like this too?
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/06/12 05:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Traveling pitfalls
landman02,
As far as your routes to R/C and Yellowstone from your launch point, can't help. As far as a few GREAT camping areas around R/C, Sturgis, Dogwood, Mt Rushmore etc, there's a couple of very, very nice spots. The one closest to Rushmore and Dogwood would be, to us, is Rafter J Bar campground. Take a look at their site on the net. It's very spacious, very scenic, very nicely laid out, and nice folks to deal with. We'll go back there in a heart beat.
As far as a little farther north, real close to the town of Spearfish SD, is one called Elkhorn Ridge RV Park. Outstanding, clean, incredibly spacious, park with around 100 or so, 75' concrete pull throughs with grass on each side and what was smaller trees, although it was a couple of years ago that we were there and the trees might be a bit taller now and more shade etc. A great place and jumping off point for;
1. A quick run to Sturgis to see where they have the largest motorcycle gathering annually
2. About a 100+ mile round trip to Devils tower and a great place to see and visit.
3. A very short run to "Spearfish Canyon". An outstanding scenic drive in the middle of the town of Spearfish. You won't forget that one.
The run from Spearfish due west is long and semi flat. But, as you get closer to Cody WY, there's some serious grades if you take the wrong route. They're really scenic but, climb extensively. I think one is 14 and the other is 14A, not sure which one is the one that has the super grades on it. We took it from Cody to the east and man, first gear for about 9 miles or so.
From Cody to the east gate of Yellowstone, not bad at all. But, from the gate to the upper end, serious climb. Doable but, long and windy. Depending on how you like to camp. There's great dry camping in Yellowstone. You get way more room and more room to breath with all those. Fishing Bridge in Yellowstone is one that I can think of that has full hook ups but, you are very close to bumper to bumper and corner to corner in that one. We're not much for listening to neighbors from 5' away.
We love many of the dry camping areas in Yellowstone. Grant Village is one of them. Outstanding place. And, a tad bit of advice here. Please do not try and conquer Yellowstone in one or even two days. There's entirely too much to see and do and you'll miss much of the grandeur of it by whisking on through. It all depends on how much you time you have and want to spend.
Now, a smart move might be to stay in one of the campgrounds on the southern end and tour all of what the south end of Yellowstone and, the neighboring Grand Tetons have to offer then, move your rig to Grizzly RV park, just outside of the West entrance to Yellowstone and use that as base point. Grizzly RV park is incredibly clean and very well kept. Close quarter spots but, still a very nice place and, it's in the middle of the town of West Yellowstone so, you'll have plenty to do around there and there's lots of eateries all around.
Well, hope this helps some. Take care and have a nice trip.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/05/12 01:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Fiberglass roof cleaning. White residue on MH.
msmd1,
I thank you for the nice comments. Yep, it's a bit of work but, as stated, not only do I love the look and feel, (smooth as a babies b...)but, it's using its own qualities to protect itself rather than adding something to the surface. Now folks, obviously it's your roof(s) so, put anything you'd like up there. I'm not trying to dissuade anyone here.
Maybe it's because ours has been covered for most of its life is the reason there was no "white streaks" emanating from the roof in wet situations. In working up there, and crawling around on the unbuffed sections, I didn't even get white on me or my clothes. But, I guess that if these things sit consistently in the sun for ever, you'd get the streaks and the serious chalking.
But, the work I did and will do to finish the project will have this roof looking and feeling considerably better than when it left the factory. I know because I've been on new fiberglass roofs when looking for a new coach. So, anyway, should any one attempt to do what I'm doing, be prepared for some work, but the end result will astonish you, without a doubt. And I have no doubt that the endurance of such a finish will last for a long time.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/03/12 08:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Strangest toad of all
You sure as heck would not have to worry about traffic.
scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/02/12 10:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: leveling
rstuck,
Sure you can. What you have to take into consideration is the amount you'll need to raise the rear of the coach, if needed, to get it level. And the only reason you need to think about it is because if, you decide to disconnect while your level and you're at some strange angle, you might have a bind on the tow bar. But, tow bars are made to pivot, up and down. So, you should have no issues leaving it connected and leveling.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/02/12 10:44pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Towing Boat with Class A
Reinell31,
They're out there. You just have to be in the right place at the right time. Sometimes they go fast for cheaper, older motor home. Our Reinell was a 21.5' "Wake board" edition and weighed in at around 3K lbs. I don't think the trailer was at 2K but, possible. In any case, you'll have no trouble towing yours. Backing it down a boat ramp is no big deal either. I've done it a zillion times with our coaches. The tail end of the coach, where the hitch ball is, never even got close to the water.
Unless the particular boat ramp you are intending on using has an exceptionally low angle approach, to the point where you have to have, half your vehicle in the water to float the boat off the trailer, you'll have no issues. We've been to a lot of lakes, beaches etc. and never had any issues launching with our motor homes. The only issue you'll have, if you want to call it one is, approach angle. That is, some ramps have limited prep turning areas that allow for pre-aligning and preparing for backing down the ramp.
That can be a bit of a challenge. But back to your original thoughts. The problem with the older rigs, prior to say, around '88 or older, is they're carbureted versions and that, can be a real pain. Many states have required smog tests on these rigs and it's getting harder and harder for them to pass. And, as everyone knows, carburetors can and do get finicky. So, keep your eye open and be ready, C/L should have plenty of the ones you're in the market for.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/02/12 10:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Fiberglass roof cleaning. White residue on MH.
Gang,
I must be missing something here. We've owned four different motor homes. The first two were aluminum roofed class C rigs. The first, a '79 Dodge Four-Star, had a very week, barely able to hold a body, thin aluminum skinned roof. The second, an '89 Ultra with an aluminum single sheet, flat roof. Both of those never produced any streaking of any type on the sides of the coach. We did have some black streaks here and there but, no one could guarantee that the roof(s)caused them.
The third rig, a '99 Fleetwood Bounder 34V, had a rubber roof. That one would produce some streaks but, not too many, and mostly black.
Now, the present rig we have is an '04 Itasca Horizon 36DG Diesel with the 330 CAT. It has a fiberglass roof. I've never seen any streaking from that roof at all. And, we've been in plenty of rain storms, drizzles and the like. I'd been wanting to wax this roof ever since we purchased this rig, almost a year ago. I just never got around to it. Been busy with other issues on it.
Well this thread inspired me to get to work on it. I started to wax it today and quickly found out I needed a bit more than wax. So, I broke out the buffer and, some cutting compound. Well now, that made a serious difference. As you see in the pics below, you can tell the sections that have been done and the ones that haven't. If you look closely, you'll see in the section that's been done, a reflection of the antenna tower, and in another, you'll see the reflection of the tubing that the cover over the motor home is made with.
You'll also see blotchy sections of what looks like stain or paint or grease or other stuff. What it is, is silicone that the air heads from the factory and or after market installers of the Kind Dome used to seal all the connections and mounts. The problem is/was, they got it all over that roof. Like little kids would do.
I had to scrape that all off then, buff out the roof. I've got about 4 hours into right now and I'm just a hair over half done. But, what an amazing difference. This roof has never been touched. It wasn't all that bad but, it needed some serious labor to get to a point that it will not have to be touched again for as many years as it has already been alive.
Now, I'm not trying to hijack Pogoils thread, just showing him that with some labor, a fiberglass roof can look and be incredibly nice. And, that finish will last a long time. I wouldn't put paint on this roof is someone paid me to do it.
Yes, it's work, and a lot of it but, I won't have to touch it for at least a couple of years, especially since this rig is covered 24/7 unless we're in it and using it.
Scott
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/IMG_0549.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/IMG_0550.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/IMG_0558.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/IMG_0555.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/IMG_0553.jpg
|
FIRE UP
|
05/02/12 09:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Gentle coach to help me learn to drive confidently
Dogs'n'us,
Let me get this straight. By the sound of it, I'm assuming your the wife correct? If so, doesn't the husband wish to teach you? Or, are you not comfortable with him teaching you? I'm certainly not trying to pry into your private lives here. Just wondering about some things. I taught my wife, and kids to drive our motor homes way back when. You never know when it might be needed that they, she, whoever take over due to an illness, sore back, pain, tired, what ever.
Handling a coach is not all that hard. If you've been in a Volkswagen your whole life, well, that's going to take some getting used to. They're big, slow, brake differently, accelerate differently, corner differently and more. What's needed is for you to get into a parking lot, learn the basics. Starting, stopping, parking, BACKING etc.
Any humanoid can drive in straight line. But, knowing how to react for given turn, braking situation, backing up, and much more in a large Kleenex Box on wheels takes some practice and, it's much better if done from the beginning. I'm not talking about hours and hours in a class room, just some time in a large parking lot with some detailed encouragement and practice.
Many women (and some guys) are intimidated by the use of MIRRORS, other than looking directly into them to put makeup on. Mirrors on a motor home are the life blood of what's around you, minute by minute. Driving and handling is one thing but, running over those volkswagens 'cause you didn't realize they were right next to you is a whole nother animal.
I used to teach Fire Truck driving and skills improvment and you'd be amazed at how little folks know about proper use of mirrors. If I were in your area, I'd be glad to show you some easy ways to improve and be more confident. Just take your time, try and get to a parking lot on an uncrowded day and get the basics down then, migrate to some back country roads and the freeways.
Scott
|
FIRE UP
|
05/02/12 01:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
