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RE: Same money, older higher end coach or newer not as nice one
I have added Airtabs, a new step and various smaller mods.
CresproHow has the Airtabs worked for you? Do you notice any gain in fuel mileage and stability? What steps did you change to? Thanks.
The AirTabs were $200 plus $65 for painting. I cannot say that they helped significantly with mileage, but every time I am in a 30 to 45 mph crosswind I think that I would have gladly paid four times as much for the added stability.
I replace the Kwikee step with the same model. The old step caught a curb and was bent. The new one is very nice.
Crespro
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Crespro
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05/10/12 11:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Same money, older higher end coach or newer not as nice one
In 2005 we looked at higher-end used, but DW was not pleased with the interiors or decor. We decided to buy the 2005 PAQ. DW liked the floor plan and could select the wood cabinets and all of the fabrics.
The good was that we had the 400ISL, Allison 3000, Onan 8K Quietdiesel, eight bag Roadmaster chassis and all new appliances. The tradeoff was acceptable -- rear radiator, propane and less structural integrity than a Foretravel or comparable coach. I can live with and comfortably adjust to all of these tradeoffs.
We now have 40,000 miles and for us the coach will last for the duration. Our 40DP is the largest size that fits comfortably on the Rincon, and the PAQ windows give ocean views that even our Newell friends do not have. I have added TPMS, VmSpc, Airtabs, a PRXB, the Amish cooling unit for the Norcold 1200, a new step and various smaller mods. For us, this is a good choice.
However, I also admit that if we ever were to change, a 2007 Essex with Coastal Cherry would be a great coach. Probably not for us, but I understand those who make a similar choice.
Happy trails,
Crespro
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Crespro
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05/08/12 12:04am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Kwickee Step Help
Swap the two wires that come out of the motor.
X2... that fixed mine.So, if that works, the question is how did it get that way?
That's likely due to the newer style door switch. One can either change out the door switch, or reverse the motor wires, which ever is easier. Either one will fix the issue.
Thanks to all who replied. I like the old door switch, so reversing the motor wires worked fine.
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Crespro
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04/22/12 09:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Kwickee Step Help
Thanks very much for the suggestions. I will try changing the wire connections tomorrow.
Crespro
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Crespro
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04/21/12 08:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Kwickee Step Help
I have replaced a Kwickee double electric step. Ground wire, four wires (red for power, yellow, brown and white) for the main connector and a wire for the light.
All is fine, but it works in reverse. Close the door -- extends. Open the door -- retracts. Start the engine -- extends.
The polarity seems to be reversed. Has this happened to anyone? Does anyone know the wire connections to change?
Thanks
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Crespro
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04/21/12 04:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New slab to park Coach
With a 6" slab, both wire mesh and rebar, I waited five weeks, but 30 days should be sufficient. You can research concrete strength with time on the web. Concrete hardens for a full year, but should have rated strength within 30 days.
You also should water it at least once per day for the first week. Slow drying improves the final strength.
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Crespro
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04/16/12 11:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New to RV'ing 84' Pace Arrow
Our first motorhome was a 1984 Pace Arrow with the 454. After you get the generator working, you might also have the manifold checked for leaks. I also kept a spare set of ignition wires. Each summer trip, I needed to replace the set. The heat in summer burned the wires and the 454 would start to miss.
It was a good coach, and we had great trips from CA to DC each year.
Best of luck,
Crespro
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Crespro
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04/11/12 10:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: walmart
I stayed a few times at Wal-Mart while enroute, but I got tired of the average $150 cost per night.
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Crespro
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02/10/12 11:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trans Temp Gauge
My 2005 ISL with Allison 3000 will normally run at 140 degrees to 150 degrees on the regular gauge.
The VmSpc gauge shows about 170 degrees, so I assume it is located in a different position on the transmission.
Both are fine. If I am in the mountains in the summer, the VmSpc may approach 190 degrees.
Transynd on an Allison 3000 is predicted to run cooler.
The only time I had a heating problem was in a traffic jam. I discovered that the transmission temp rose over 220 degrees if I remained in drive (internal friction). If I shifted into neutral when stopped, it was fine.
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Crespro
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02/07/12 11:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How do you know if you need more torque?
Torque is a luxury, but you soon become used to more than before. My 400 ISL with 1200 ft-pounds of torque can maintain 65 mph on the I-40 grade east of Albuquerque. My former 89 Pace Arrow with 454 and 22,000# of weight was moving up that grade at 38 mph. Both arrived fine at the top.
My 34,000# (coach plus toad) over 1,200 ft-pounds of torque equals 28.33# per ft-pound of torque. Yes, horsepower will lift 550# one foot per second and therefore is critical in hill-climbing, but I think that the torque rating is still useful. If you can afford torque similar to that 28#/ft-# number, you will be a happy camper.
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Crespro
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12/25/11 10:31pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Does a gasser have enough power?
My longest trip was from Rawlins, Wyoming to San Diego. It was in our 89 Pace Arrow with a 454.
Yes, my current 400ISL is great in every way, but the 454 seemed to go about as far in one day.
Buy it and I wish you happy trails.
Crespro
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Crespro
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11/13/11 08:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Unrealistic Seller Expectations--Buying and Selling an RV
I believe everyone's situation is different and one glove will not fit all. Personally, I can't stand to pay interest, that's probably the 'accountant' in me. People always talk about interest deductions and it's nice that they are available but I would rather have it 'paid in full'.
People just have to find their comfort level. Some people don't mind having heavy debt over their heads. I couldn't sleep at night. I don't want to owe anyone anything and that's the way I have it set up. We own everything we have out-right or I wouldn't have it.
We are fortunate enough that we are able to buy what we want when we want it. I certainly understand a young family wanting to camp with their kids before they grow up. And, sometimes you have to go in debt for a toy to do that.
MM.
I tend to agree with you and also with the "buy it when your kids are young" group. We bought our first used gasser to take our children (then 10 and 12) on trips the the east coast. It was great every summer until they moved on to college.
We paid cash in 1990 for a 1984 Pace Arrow. In 2005 times were quite different and we paid about seven times as much (also cash) for a new 40DP. In many ways, we enjoyed the used gasser (after fixing several issues) more than the much more expensive diesel pusher.
So I suggest that it is good to "buy when your kids are young" and I also think that many can save and buy an acceptable RV for cash. If you can, you will have substantial enjoyment with little risk.
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Crespro
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10/19/11 11:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel fuel additives, how many use it?
Doesn't the fact that the companies who make and have to warantee the engines tell you not to add anything tell you something?Well, when you are sitting beside the road and the temperature is 20 below and the engine will not run because the fuel is gelled up, one does not much care what the engine companies tell you. And we see that often here in the Northeast. Been there and done that.
As to lubricity of diesel fuel, you need to know what the injector pump manufacturers are saying: "ASTM lubricity task force: disagreement on test limit severity". The engine companies say the lubricity is okay, but the injector and injector pump say it is lacking yet! Never has been resolved as far as I know.
And here is the full additive study that was referenced in previous posts: http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf
Good study. After reading the lubricity studies, I decided to use Optilube XPD every two or three tanks. Costs about $100 per year for my mileage, so since I gave up the spirits two decades ago, it probably is a better use of funds.:)
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Crespro
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10/03/11 10:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Saturn vue
If you pulled the correct 2 amp fuse and put the key in acessory you shouldn't have had a problem. We put a toggle switch on our fuse as it is a pain to pull, before we put the toggle on we pulled it 250 miles one time then started it with no problem, OP is right if you pull the correct fuse the door will stop dinging.
x2. Install the toggle switch with a 2 amp inline fuse. When the toggle switch is moved to off, the LCD on the speedometer will turn off, showing that the primary battery drain is removed. It works very well.
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Crespro
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09/24/11 09:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Keeping new autoformer out of the weather ???
My Autoformer is in the electrical compartment connected to my transfer switch. (The cable is coiled and taped with electrical tape for convenience).
I connect it to the outside post with an extension cord. Carry both a 30 amp and a 50 amp cord. It works fine.
Best,
Crespro
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Crespro
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09/03/11 03:33pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replacing Norcold cooling unit myself - just about have
Hello,
I did this myself, but you might try to find a helper. The coil is quite heavy for one person to manage. If you find a helper . . .
If you decide that you are interested in replacing the unit with an Amish CU, let me suggest a division of work for you and two helpers. After the replacement unit arrives, you can mark all lines and disassemble the electrical and gas lines (shut down the gas at the propane tank and pull the 12V fuse for the refer first). You can also measure and build the short platform that holds the refer when it is slid from its position to that for changing the CU. I used 2" by 10" lumber -- the refer is about 225#. Both of those jobs require some effort, but are not strenuous. Your two helpers then slide the refer on to the platform. I used old blankets on the top and bottom of the platform and slid the unit into my kitchen. Mark the position of the cables and bolts and your two helpers will unbolt the CU from the refer (front first and then back -- follow the PDF directions). The CU is fairly heavy and after your helpers remove the old one, then can use the thermal mastic on the coils of the new unit and replace it. It will take both to align the bolts in your freezer and refer and install them. Then they will install the bolts on the back, and you can reassemble the electrical and gas section. Your two helpers will slide the unit into position and back into the normal platform. Check all connections and reassemble. Check your gas and waterline connections for leaks. The PDF directions are fairly good. With two helpers for one day, you should be fine. I have not used the new unit extensively, but my overall impression is quite good. The welding and finish appear to be much better. My old Norcold refer had a surprisingly large level of rust for six years old in a fairly dry climate. The new should be much better, and I am more comfortable with the reduced level of risk.
Best of luck, Crespro
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Crespro
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08/26/11 06:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I'm real close to dumping my Norcold 1200
I just removed my 1200. I'm putting in a counter depth Samsung 18 cu. ft. three door. I did have to remove the side door and the frig doors get the old frig out and the new one in. Much more room inside than the 1200.
We do not boon dock so I will try the the frig without a converter.
The 1200 scares me. We spend the winters in Fla. and we have seen 3 1200's catch fire over the past 2 years. I know 2 of them had the recalls installed. I installed a halon unit behind the frig. to protect the puppy in case of fire.
How old were the coaches that had the Norcold 1200 fires? It has been difficult to get information to estimate the risk or failure rate. Understandably, Norcold will not release that info. After reading about the failures online (Google search for Norcold fires), I decided to install the Amish CU. It seems to work fine.
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Crespro
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06/17/11 06:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: "The Solution"-have you tried?
Hi,
I have used it for two years. Spray it on and then wipe it off with blue heavy-duty paper towels. It takes the dirt off and leaves everything sparkling. I use a roll of blue paper towels each time I clean and polish the RV.
I can do the entire coach in a day with The Solution. It is much faster than waxing.
The last time I did this in a campground, there was a crowd watching.
Crespro
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Crespro
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06/07/11 09:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 87 BMW 325 manual-trans as Toad
Hello,
I towed a 1989 325 with a manual transmission for three years. It seemed fine -- no major problems. We did not hit major dips, but the front air intake is fairly low, so you should be careful.
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Crespro
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05/31/11 06:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Car dolly with brakes or without
I think that I will attempt to answer your question.
First, brakes on the toad or tow dolly are always better. On my toad, I use the M & G system, and it works well.
You are driving a 34' gasser. That coach is probably about 18,000# and your toad is an added 4K or so. The toad is about one-fourth the weight of the RV. This is a significant factor in towing. The larger that ratio, the greater the risk.
In my earlier days, I used a tow dolly without brakes behind a 34' Pace Arrow (1984) and a 37' tag axle Pace Arrow (1989). We covered about 35,000 miles, and traveled CA to DC five times. So we experienced the full range of America and city/country traffic. If you drive carefully, you probably will be fine. I was careful to follow at a reasonable distance, and never had a problem during that time.
Only an insurance underwriter can tell you the level of added risk. This is pure guess, but I suspect that a reasonably careful driver will increase risk of an accident by 5% to 10% when not using brakes. As others have noted, a very large number of both tow dollies and toads do not have brakes, and most RV drivers in this situation are successful in avoiding accidents.
I am assuming that brakes are not required in your state with your configuration. While I believe that insurance companies would still be required to fulfill their obligations under the policy (many claims are paid when the driver is running a red light and therefore breaking the law -- ask me how I know), I would not recommend the "no brakes on dolly" option if it is against the law of your state.
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Crespro
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05/24/11 11:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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