The electric side of the water heater does not work. Anything to check besides a new element? It's a suburban sw6de I think is the model.
Propane works fine.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!
ktmrfs wrote:
first, if you have a switch for the AC element inside the trailer check and make sure the switch outside in the wh is also set to ON. most of the time they are set off and you need to change it. then the inside switch will turn on the element. the inside switch is a 12V signal to a relay inside the wh control board.
first, if you have a switch for the AC element inside the trailer check and make sure the switch outside in the wh is also set to ON. most of the time they are set off and you need to change it. then the inside switch will turn on the element. the inside switch is a 12V signal to a relay inside the wh control board.
Not quite......
Suburban electric is a DIRECT fed from a AC Circuit Breaker to On/OFF switch to the set of t-stats then to element
(Atwood uses the 12V DC relay for AC element)
Yes..
If you have an ON/OFF switch inside RV then the OEM outside switch has to be ON also (lower left corner)
Also check that the High T-stat has not tripped.....Rubber cover in outside compartment 'Push To Reset' (if tripped you will feel resistance as you reset------Left side for AC/Right side for LP)
If switches are ON and Hi T-stat didn't trip/is reset then you should have 120V AC at element (Voltage between Black wire terminal & White wire terminal)
No voltage......turn switch OFF and measure continuity between the two terminals (Should have continuity)
And 'No Continuity' between Black wire terminal and element flange
IF tests good then remove cover over t-stats and see if 'connecting wire' between Hi and Normal t-stat has burnt in to
IF turned on without water......element burnt out
Is it time for your medication or mine?
2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31
And it probably needs 12 V DC for the control circuit too.
Jerry
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- bad heating element
- bad thermostat
- bad hi temp cutout switch
- bad on/off switch
- loose neutral wire connection in junction box on back of WH
- bad/loose wire connections else where in circuit
- tripped breaker
With a voltmeter and the schematic shown above you should be able to isolate the problem if you are comfortable troubleshooting 120 vac electric.
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Not quite......
Suburban electric is a DIRECT fed from a AC Circuit Breaker to On/OFF switch to the set of t-stats then to element
(Atwood uses the 12V DC relay for AC element)
Yes..
If you have an ON/OFF switch inside RV then the OEM outside switch has to be ON also (lower left corner)
Also check that the High T-stat has not tripped.....Rubber cover in outside compartment 'Push To Reset' (if tripped you will feel resistance as you reset------Left side for AC/Right side for LP)
If switches are ON and Hi T-stat didn't trip/is reset then you should have 120V AC at element (Voltage between Black wire terminal & White wire terminal)
No voltage......turn switch OFF and measure continuity between the two terminals (Should have continuity)
And 'No Continuity' between Black wire terminal and element flange
IF tests good then remove cover over t-stats and see if 'connecting wire' between Hi and Normal t-stat has burnt in to
IF turned on without water......element burnt out
![[image]](http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18727\u0026d=1346031084)
ktmrfs wrote:
first, if you have a switch for the AC element inside the trailer check and make sure the switch outside in the wh is also set to ON. most of the time they are set off and you need to change it. then the inside switch will turn on the element. the inside switch is a 12V signal to a relay inside the wh control board.
first, if you have a switch for the AC element inside the trailer check and make sure the switch outside in the wh is also set to ON. most of the time they are set off and you need to change it. then the inside switch will turn on the element. the inside switch is a 12V signal to a relay inside the wh control board.
Not quite......
Suburban electric is a DIRECT fed from a AC Circuit Breaker to On/OFF switch to the set of t-stats then to element
(Atwood uses the 12V DC relay for AC element)
Yes..
If you have an ON/OFF switch inside RV then the OEM outside switch has to be ON also (lower left corner)
Also check that the High T-stat has not tripped.....Rubber cover in outside compartment 'Push To Reset' (if tripped you will feel resistance as you reset------Left side for AC/Right side for LP)
If switches are ON and Hi T-stat didn't trip/is reset then you should have 120V AC at element (Voltage between Black wire terminal & White wire terminal)
No voltage......turn switch OFF and measure continuity between the two terminals (Should have continuity)
And 'No Continuity' between Black wire terminal and element flange
IF tests good then remove cover over t-stats and see if 'connecting wire' between Hi and Normal t-stat has burnt in to
IF turned on without water......element burnt out
well on my suburban the inside the trailer switch is a 12V switch with 12V going to the WH to turn on the 120v to the WH. Likewise on several others I know with suburbans. true, the 120V feeds directly to the switch in the WH.
BB_TX wrote:
Various problems found by others when WH not working on electric include:
- bad heating element
- bad thermostat
- bad hi temp cutout switch
- bad on/off switch
- loose neutral wire connection in junction box on back of WH
- bad/loose wire connections else where in circuit
- tripped breaker
With a voltmeter and the schematic shown above you should be able to isolate the problem if you are comfortable troubleshooting 120 vac electric.
Various problems found by others when WH not working on electric include:
- bad heating element
- bad thermostat
- bad hi temp cutout switch
- bad on/off switch
- loose neutral wire connection in junction box on back of WH
- bad/loose wire connections else where in circuit
- tripped breaker
With a voltmeter and the schematic shown above you should be able to isolate the problem if you are comfortable troubleshooting 120 vac electric.
I'm not particularly comfortable trouble shooting electrical systems and don't eeven have a voltmeter. So, for $15 and what I think is the most likely problem I plan to replace the element today. Hopefully that's the issue.
acritzer wrote:
Hopefully that's the issue.
Hopefully that's the issue.
And if not, what will you do next ?
A voltmeter will cost you $15 or less.....and will save you MUCH more than that in wasted guesses on other things that will surely come up in the future.
acritzer wrote:
I'm not particularly comfortable trouble shooting electrical systems and don't eeven have a voltmeter. So, for $15 and what I think is the most likely problem I plan to replace the element today. Hopefully that's the issue.
BB_TX wrote:
Various problems found by others when WH not working on electric include:
- bad heating element
- bad thermostat
- bad hi temp cutout switch
- bad on/off switch
- loose neutral wire connection in junction box on back of WH
- bad/loose wire connections else where in circuit
- tripped breaker
With a voltmeter and the schematic shown above you should be able to isolate the problem if you are comfortable troubleshooting 120 vac electric.
Various problems found by others when WH not working on electric include:
- bad heating element
- bad thermostat
- bad hi temp cutout switch
- bad on/off switch
- loose neutral wire connection in junction box on back of WH
- bad/loose wire connections else where in circuit
- tripped breaker
With a voltmeter and the schematic shown above you should be able to isolate the problem if you are comfortable troubleshooting 120 vac electric.
I'm not particularly comfortable trouble shooting electrical systems and don't eeven have a voltmeter. So, for $15 and what I think is the most likely problem I plan to replace the element today. Hopefully that's the issue.
The most likely is the switch is off. I assume you checked that?
ktmrfs wrote:
well on my suburban the inside the trailer switch is a 12V switch with 12V going to the WH to turn on the 120v to the WH. Likewise on several others I know with suburbans. true, the 120V feeds directly to the switch in the WH.
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Not quite......
Suburban electric is a DIRECT fed from a AC Circuit Breaker to On/OFF switch to the set of t-stats then to element
(Atwood uses the 12V DC relay for AC element)
Yes..
If you have an ON/OFF switch inside RV then the OEM outside switch has to be ON also (lower left corner)
Also check that the High T-stat has not tripped.....Rubber cover in outside compartment 'Push To Reset' (if tripped you will feel resistance as you reset------Left side for AC/Right side for LP)
If switches are ON and Hi T-stat didn't trip/is reset then you should have 120V AC at element (Voltage between Black wire terminal & White wire terminal)
No voltage......turn switch OFF and measure continuity between the two terminals (Should have continuity)
And 'No Continuity' between Black wire terminal and element flange
IF tests good then remove cover over t-stats and see if 'connecting wire' between Hi and Normal t-stat has burnt in to
IF turned on without water......element burnt out
ktmrfs wrote:
first, if you have a switch for the AC element inside the trailer check and make sure the switch outside in the wh is also set to ON. most of the time they are set off and you need to change it. then the inside switch will turn on the element. the inside switch is a 12V signal to a relay inside the wh control board.
first, if you have a switch for the AC element inside the trailer check and make sure the switch outside in the wh is also set to ON. most of the time they are set off and you need to change it. then the inside switch will turn on the element. the inside switch is a 12V signal to a relay inside the wh control board.
Not quite......
Suburban electric is a DIRECT fed from a AC Circuit Breaker to On/OFF switch to the set of t-stats then to element
(Atwood uses the 12V DC relay for AC element)
Yes..
If you have an ON/OFF switch inside RV then the OEM outside switch has to be ON also (lower left corner)
Also check that the High T-stat has not tripped.....Rubber cover in outside compartment 'Push To Reset' (if tripped you will feel resistance as you reset------Left side for AC/Right side for LP)
If switches are ON and Hi T-stat didn't trip/is reset then you should have 120V AC at element (Voltage between Black wire terminal & White wire terminal)
No voltage......turn switch OFF and measure continuity between the two terminals (Should have continuity)
And 'No Continuity' between Black wire terminal and element flange
IF tests good then remove cover over t-stats and see if 'connecting wire' between Hi and Normal t-stat has burnt in to
IF turned on without water......element burnt out
well on my suburban the inside the trailer switch is a 12V switch with 12V going to the WH to turn on the 120v to the WH. Likewise on several others I know with suburbans. true, the 120V feeds directly to the switch in the WH.
That is a 'modification' by RV MFG
The RV MFG. has done that due to all in one monitoring panel plus controls for pump and WH.
Suburban OEM is 120V AC direct
Suburban doesn't use a 12V DC relay for electric.
That could be an issue for troubleshooting cause ALL Suburban 120V AC schematics will NOT show that 12V DC circuit and relay
And Keystone doesn't have schematics
acritzer wrote:
I'm not particularly comfortable trouble shooting electrical systems and don't eeven have a voltmeter. So, for $15 and what I think is the most likely problem I plan to replace the element today. Hopefully that's the issue.
BB_TX wrote:
Various problems found by others when WH not working on electric include:
- bad heating element
- bad thermostat
- bad hi temp cutout switch
- bad on/off switch
- loose neutral wire connection in junction box on back of WH
- bad/loose wire connections else where in circuit
- tripped breaker
With a voltmeter and the schematic shown above you should be able to isolate the problem if you are comfortable troubleshooting 120 vac electric.
Various problems found by others when WH not working on electric include:
- bad heating element
- bad thermostat
- bad hi temp cutout switch
- bad on/off switch
- loose neutral wire connection in junction box on back of WH
- bad/loose wire connections else where in circuit
- tripped breaker
With a voltmeter and the schematic shown above you should be able to isolate the problem if you are comfortable troubleshooting 120 vac electric.
I'm not particularly comfortable trouble shooting electrical systems and don't eeven have a voltmeter. So, for $15 and what I think is the most likely problem I plan to replace the element today. Hopefully that's the issue.
Hopefully, that's the issue. While you are buying the element, pick up a non-contact voltage light. They are a small plastic probe affair that indicates if voltage is present with a light.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton
westend wrote:
Hopefully, that's the issue. While you are buying the element, pick up a non-contact voltage light. They are a small plastic probe affair that indicates if voltage is present with a light.
acritzer wrote:
I'm not particularly comfortable trouble shooting electrical systems and don't eeven have a voltmeter. So, for $15 and what I think is the most likely problem I plan to replace the element today. Hopefully that's the issue.
BB_TX wrote:
Various problems found by others when WH not working on electric include:
- bad heating element
- bad thermostat
- bad hi temp cutout switch
- bad on/off switch
- loose neutral wire connection in junction box on back of WH
- bad/loose wire connections else where in circuit
- tripped breaker
With a voltmeter and the schematic shown above you should be able to isolate the problem if you are comfortable troubleshooting 120 vac electric.
Various problems found by others when WH not working on electric include:
- bad heating element
- bad thermostat
- bad hi temp cutout switch
- bad on/off switch
- loose neutral wire connection in junction box on back of WH
- bad/loose wire connections else where in circuit
- tripped breaker
With a voltmeter and the schematic shown above you should be able to isolate the problem if you are comfortable troubleshooting 120 vac electric.
I'm not particularly comfortable trouble shooting electrical systems and don't eeven have a voltmeter. So, for $15 and what I think is the most likely problem I plan to replace the element today. Hopefully that's the issue.
Hopefully, that's the issue. While you are buying the element, pick up a non-contact voltage light. They are a small plastic probe affair that indicates if voltage is present with a light.
You missed my update. It's all fixed. New heating element did the trick.
this should help those with a 12VDC switch inside the trailer. the schematics seem somewhat confusing and contradictory at first, but then I think what the show is the first schematic shows the 12V wiring, relay, spark ignitor section of the WH and the second shows the 120V wiring side.
Note the relay shown in both schematics. that's the new piece showing how the 12V circuit interfaces and controls the 120V to the WH electric element showing the 12V and 120V sides of the relay. my WH in my home built toy hauler has on the 120V w/o the relay section, while my outback has what is shown below with a relay.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/JInhNF4l.jpg)
THANKS!
Haven't seen that set up on Suburban.
Interesting ------DEL models Electronic Element w/ 12 volt relay